Toulouse, during a pandemic.

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Don’t look for any restaurant recommendations in this article, as there will unfortunately be none. When I visited Toulouse last week, France had just lifted a national lockdown amid the covid-19 pandemic and kept some important restrictions in place: all restaurants and bars were shutdown, as were museums, cinemas and theatres. Only shops, grocery stores and religious edifices were allowed to be open. Wearing masks was mandatory across the whole city, and social distancing was practiced as much as possible. Lastly, a national curfew was in place between the hours of 8pm-6am. 

How did these restrictions and the pandemic translate in the city? 

As we were just one week away from December 25th, Toulouse locals still flocked daily to stores to complete their Christmas shopping, which resulted in a pretty crowded city center during my whole stay. After a one-month lockdown, people were eager to finally get out, shop their heart out, order take-out food and walk around their favorite city to admire Christmas lights and decorations – before having to rush home for the curfew. 

However, the outskirts of the city center were very quiet, and some streets mostly empty. The only flurry came early in the morning from people lining up to go inside bakeries, or lining up to get a covid test in a pharmacy or one of the testing stations scattered around the city, under big white tents. A sense of normalcy was definitely not here, and the feeling of sometimes wandering into a ghost-town was very much present.  

No dining out, no drinks, no museums, no shows. 

It wasn’t of course the best setting to visit Toulouse. Yet, surprisingly, these unique circumstances led me to (re)visit Toulouse with a fresh outlook. I got to see Toulouse without any frills and felt privileged to enjoy a quiet city in its bare state. I was able to focus on the city’s architecture, learn its history, and grasp its original essence, with no distractions. While I initially feared the lack of activities, it turned out to be quite liberating. I embraced taking time to admire Toulouse’s Roman buildings. I truly felt the intimate vibes in the sinuous cobbled streets of the medieval center. I enjoyed taking endless walks along the empty banks of the Garonne River. 

A different way of tourism 

This was really a different way to visit a city – masked up, slowed down, and only seeing things from the exterior. But in the end, this pandemic-version of Toulouse made my trip all the more memorable, while immensely pleasant at the same time. I enjoyed the city in a way I probably never would have in other circumstances. 

A few things to know about Toulouse 

Toulouse is France’s 4th largest city (after Paris, Lyon and Marseilles) and is a 4:30hr train ride from Paris. With a major University campus network, the city houses a very large student population which makes it a very lively city, known for its busy nightlife. Yet several parts of the city are very family-friendly. With an important immigrant population, the city enjoys both Spanish and Arabic influences present in its cuisine, shops and general vibe. While a large city, Toulouse has a human-sized center that can be visited by foot, with all major sites within walking distance. 

For the French, Toulouse is known for its relaxed lifestyle, proud locals, its aerospace industry, its rugby fans, having drinks on the banks of the Garonne River, eating Cassoulet and for being “La Ville Rose”. 

Why is Toulouse called “La Ville Rose” (the pink city)? 

Distinctive pink tiles and clay bricks were used to construct many buildings around the city, giving Toulouse a unique charm. Depending on their baking time, the bricks (known as “briques foraines”) vary from light pink, to coral, to deep orange. The colors vary throughout the day too – vibrant at sunset, pale pink in the sun and deeper under the rain. 

Top things to see in Toulouse: 

• Place du Capitole – The Cap’ (as the locals say) is the heart of Toulouse. This large esplanade hosts the impressive Capitole building, home to the town hall and the Théâtre du Capitole. 
• Basilique Saint-Sernin – a World Unesco Site, this XI century basilica is one of the largest Roman buildings in the Occident. 
• Couvent des Jacobins – A beautiful Southern Gothic Art church and convent, adorned by a unique vault reminding of a palm tree.
• Hôtel d’Assézat – A 16TH century French Renaissance Hotel particulier, now home to an Art Galery (the Georges Bemberg’s Foundation). 
• Musée de Augustins – Toulouse’s Fine Art museum.
• Musée Saint-Raymond – Toulouse’ archeological & Antiquities museum. 
• Cathédrale Saint-Étienne 
• Eglise Notre Dame de la Dalbade 
• Canal du Midi 
• Canal de Brienne
• Pont Neuf 
• Quai de la Daurade 
• Place Saint Pierre
• Le Jardin des Plantes 
• Le Jardin Japonais 
• Marché Victor Hugo 
• Marché des Carmes 

What specialties to eat in Toulouse: 

• Cassoulet 
• Aligot 
• Toulouse sausage 
• Foie gras 
• Duck confit 
• Gâteau à la broche
• Fenetra 
• Apple Croustade
• Violet candies

And here are a few photos from my stay in Toulouse during the pandemic… enjoy! 

Last photos are of an Aligot (cheesy mashed potatoes) and Fenetra pastry (tart filled with apicot jam, candied lemon peel and almond meringue) – two local specialties. 

Did you enjoy this article? 

Please let me know by leaving a comment below to let me know if you enjoyed it. And if you have any tips, details or experiences to share about Toulouse, please feel free to share them.