Our next day in Marseille took us on a more “real” stroll through the city, in boroughs where locals live and gather, and where ethnic vibes are also more present. In this 2nd part of my Marseille Guide, I am sharing must-dos that don’t hold as much of a typical “Provencal Charm” or laid-back feel as in Part 1, but I feel there are just as essential if you want to see Marseille’s modern facets. And I have to admit, although I am more of a sucker for the cliché marvels of Le Panier, this second day also led us to some fantastic food spots: the Egyptian La Cantine de Nour and the gastronomic Le Bistro des Dames.
Read along for the delicious details…
Do: The Old Port, in the morning.
“Le Vieux Port” is Marseille’s birthplace (where the Greek settlers landed in the year 600) and is undoubtedty the city’s most famous hang-out spot for locals and tourists alike. The southern and northern quays host a spread of lively bars and cafes (some tourist-traps, some surprisingly not). The beautiful Baroque-style City Hall on the northern quay is a must-see (especially if you are a fan of Netflix’s TV Series Marseille).
But I think The Old Port’s greatest appeal is squeezed in its center, and in the early morning, when fishermen come back from their night of fishing and spread their fresh catches on market stalls for locals and chefs to buy. Most of The Old Port’s fisherman do what we call in French « la petite pêche». This means they only go to sea for a few hours, on small boats and fish on a smaller scale. Their artisanal practice is a far stretch from the behemoth of fishing industries generated just a few miles away at Marseille’s commercial port – the biggest French port. Still, these artisanal fishermen are icons in the city, and attract plenty of fish lovers every single morning. This ritual at the Old Port is a 100% Marseille experience, and a true feast for the eyes (although not so much for your nose) – something you definitely do not want to miss.
Do: Notre Dame de La Garde
Notre Dame de La Garde is Marseille’s iconic Catholic Basilica and its most visited site. You’ll feel like a tourist among tourists, but you just can’t visit Marseille without making your way up to Notre Dame de La Garde. Perched at the top of the city’s highest natural point (at 149m/489ft), the edifice is regarded as the protectoress of the city, hence its endearing nickname Bonne Mere (“good mother”) given by the locals. The contrasted-stone architecture is beautiful and I really appreciated the mosaic works inside, as well.
If you plan on climbing to the top of the Basilica’s hill by foot, from the city’s center, be prepared for a work-out! But I guarantee you, you will feel it’s worth every drip of sweat once you catch a glimpse of the breath-taking city panorama from atop. And don’t forget to look South too, for a glimpse of the Velodrome Stadium and the Castellane, St -Giniez, St-Marguerite and Roucas Blanc districts.
Do : Cours Julien
The Cours Julien is a fun bohemian quarter, famous for its colorful and abundant street art. It has a cool edgy side to it, and you’ll want to get lost in its streets with your head up to admire all the graffiti-painted walls. You’ll find lots of quirky independent stores, tattoo parlors, bookstores, ethnic restaurants, one of Marseille’s only craft breweries and lively markets on the main square. The Cours Julien has a very “real” vibe. In my opinion, it is not the pretties district in Marseilles (kind of rough on the edges, to be honest), but I can definitely see why for students and young crowds, it is Marseilles’ trendiest neighborhood.
Eat: La Cantine de Nour
Three steps away from the striking Palais Longtchamps, this relaxed Egyptian cantine had to be one of our favourite food finds during our trip! Nested on the ground floor of an Egyptian Cultural Center, La Cantine de Nour offers an authentic Egyptian menu from a bustling open kitchen. The décor features plump cushions, colorful rugs and mosaic-tiled floors. The atmosphere is welcoming and relaxed and the food is simply amazing (and a great value). We shared plates of Egyptian mezzes and a perfectly grilled fish, served with scrumptious kesra (Egyptian sesame flat bread) and all-you-can-drink tea.
To me, La Cantine de Nour is such a great example of Marseille’s abundance of outstanding North African food and talented cooks. Next time in I’m Marseilles, I am definitely going back to this gem!
Do: La Friche de la Belle de Mai
“La Friche” (literaly “The Wasteland” in French) is a former tobacco factory near the St Charles train station, in the Belle de Mai district (famous for being home of the Plus Belle La Vie studios, France’s biggest TV soap opera). The tobacco factory emptied decades ago and the youth slowly invaded the place using it as a skate park, basketball playground and graffiti wonderland. The idea made its way to the Town of Marseille’s officials… who decided to invest money into the project in the 90s. They secured, structured, glamourized the area and turned it into a cultural complex with art studios, a legit skate park, family and community gardens, a café, a restaurant and even a nursery. Walking into La Friche is unsettling, puzzling, yet exciting all at once. A kind of Los Angeles-hip-meets-Detroit-grunge-meets-Marseilles-projects.
Though, exploring the polished art gallery, the hipster cafe and family-filled skate park, I couldn’t help but wonder about the authenticity of the place… Was it a genuine plan to offer a place for artistic expression and playground to the city kids? Or rather a sleek communication strategy from the Town of Marseille, always suffering from a smeared image? Still, the Friche, I think, serves its civic purpose, and no matter what opinion you’ll make of it, it surely is a place like no other in France, and is worth a visit.
Eat : Le Bistro des Dames
From Lunch through Dinner time, la Place aux Huiles is a much-frequented esplanade just a few metres away from the Old Port. As we were searching for a dinner spot in the midst of all the buzzling patios, we opted for Le Bistro des Dames. And maybe because it’s set on one of Marseille’s busiest night-life spots, but we expected the food to be good, yet nothing extraordinary… Oh how we were wrong! The food was outstanding! We started with a board of local cheeses and a plate of razor clams, garnished with parsley butter. For the mains, we enjoyed some scrumptious homemade vegetable pasta (I know vegetable pasta doesn’t sound like much, but these were insane), along with the best Sole Meunière I have ever had in my life (huge props to the chef on this one!). For dessert, a deconstructed rhubard pie made for a perfect ending to this perfect dinner.
Marseille Guide – Part 3, coming soon…
