They say Marseille is a city you either love, or hate. And for me, it was love at first sight.
I fell hard for Marseille the first time I visited the city two years ago. And I have been bizarrely obsessed with it since then. Which, being a Brittany girl, was a bit against all odds – given how our two regions’ cultures, mentalities and lifestyles are so opposite (both on the French map and abstractly too). But somehow, for the past two years, there isn’t a day I haven’t been longing in despair for Marseille.
Finally, last Fall, I returned to Marseille. But this time with my husband and with the mission of making him fall in love with the city too. September was an ideal time of year to visit, as we enjoyed warm temperatures (but not hot) and avoided the peak of tourist season (June, July, August). And the best part was my husband ended up falling in love with Marseille too. Although frankly, I was a little scared he was going to hate it at first – because some people do hate Marseille, too.
The second-largest city in France has been long unloved and unwanted and seen at the country’s black sheep. It’s known to be loud, proud, rough on the edges, with a serious issue of drug-war related violence. And yes, there are neighborhoods you’d want to avoid (understand the crime-ridden northern suburbs “quartiers nords”), some political struggles and some architectural blots around the city.
But while all these are true, Marseille sure knows how to show her bright side.
Sitting on the edge of the blue Mediterranean, the city is a fierce ambassador of Provence and at the crossroads of European, African and Middle-Eastern immigration. This gives you a city with a fascinating cultural heritage, oscillating between the typical Southern French, sun-bathed, Pastis-sipping slow life and the hussle-and-bussle of one of Europe’s biggest melting pots.
Its food is just the same. A tantalizing mix of earthy Provencal stews, seafood feasts, Moroccan grillades, Algerian pastries, Egyptian mezzes and Italian-inspired antipastos. All coming together in a local cuisine like no other.
Marseille is a city that will make your head spin, your stomach laugh, and bedazzle your eyes with a side of France you weren’t expecting.
I am overly excited to share with you my recommendations on what to do and of course what to eat in Marseille – enough to fill at least 3 days. And because I had a lot of photos and places to share, I divided this Marseille Guide in 3 parts, with each part achievable in a day. These recommendations are hardly comprehensive, but some of the best places we wandered in and ate at, while staying in Marseille. All the recommendations are also summarized at the end of the article.
And I’d love if you added your recommendations too if you have any (leave a comment!). Because 3 days is clearly not enough to explore all Marseille has to offer.
I already long for the day I will be back …
Do : Le Panier
Getting lost in the history-woven quarter, Le Panier (known as Marseille’s birthplace) is the perfect introduction to Marseille. Once a first stop for immigrants arriving in Marseille, the quarter is now inhabited by a joyous mix of Corsican, North African and French families. A quaint district offers a picture-perfect image of a Provencal village from yesteryear, with narrow hilly streets packed with artsy boutiques, café patios and pastel facades adorned by rows of drying clothes.
But behind every facade, expect to see some reality too.
Because truth is, Le Panier of today is a tad gritty, packed with noisy renovation work at every street corner, not-so-attractive school playgrounds, a tad unclean, with men often whistling at women passing by from their baby-blue sheltered windows. Yet, the graffiti on every wall – half-art, half-visual pollution – seemed to me to be the perfect image of these two opposite worlds co-existing in harmony.
A place where one’s societal views might have to be reconsidered, to embrace a little more chaos. Although we are still speaking of France here … yet, this is a place like no other.
Do : Musée de la Vieille Charité
In the heart of Le Panier, the Musée de la Vieille Charité is a former hospice turned museum. The impressive U-shaped pink and white stoned edifice (designed by renowned Marseille-Architect Pierre Puget) is just enough to make it a must-stop during your visit of the city. But the museum also hosts unique pieces of Mediterranean archaeology, along with art from Africa, Oceania and the Americas, as well as some great temporary exhibitions (like a nice one on Jack London that we saw).
Eat: Le Clan Des Cigales
Right outside the doors of La Vieille Charité, stop for lunch at Le Clan Des Cigales, on Rue du Petit Puits. I had gone to this little restaurant two years ago, and made sure to come back last Fall with my husband. Everything is house-made with fresh, local products. On the sun-bathed patio, we enjoyed a delicious farm-to-table meal of star-anise and fennel pork sausage, mashed olive oil potatoes and salad.
A typical Provencal experience, that isn’t a tourist trap.
Eat : Maison Geney
Also in Le Panier, Maison Geney is a modern and cozy little coffee shop that offers savoury and sweet breakfast, brunch and lunch options – all made-on site. Everything is fresh, delicious and so creative (both in looks and with the choice of ingredients). On the sweet side, you’ll find decadent baked-goods like giant chocolate fondants, fig & raspberries quatre-quarts, banana clafoutis and pistachio financiers. On the savoury side, fresh focaccia sandwiches, loaded veggie wraps and overflowing pizzas, sold by the slice.
Eat : Vanille Noir
There are plenty of ice-cream shops all around Marseille, but this one offers a black vanilla ice-cream that will knock your socks off. The color comes from the two kinds of vanilla pods used in its creation (a vanilla from Tahiti and a vanilla from Madagascar). The rest of the recipe is kept secret, but I suspect there is some activated charcoal as well. The ice-cream is amazing! Intensely vanilla-flavoured, with a slight bittersweet taste that gets rounded off by the velvety texture of the scoop. Vanille Noir also offers plenty of other delicious flavours, all 100% organic.
Eat : Les Navettes des Accoules
Navettes are traditional orange-flavoured biscuits from Marseilles (shaped like “navettes”, Marseille’s old fishing boats). You’ll find many bakeries in Marseilles where they are offered, but Les Navettes des Accoules is said to offer the most authentic ones. They’re crunchy outside, soft inside, with delicate orange notes – and most importantly not tooth-breaking (which you’ll find a lot of the other ones are). Make sure you also try their Anise-flavoured Canistrelli.
Do : Cathédral de La Major
Marseille’s Cathedral is an enormously scaled Byzantine-Roman style edifice that dominates the whole landscape. It truly impresses with its size, but also because it contrasts strikingly with its modern neighbourhood La Joliette, located at the start of the autonomous port. If in the mood for a shopping trip, walk north to the funky shopping mall Les Docks, built in a re-purposed building.
Do : The MUCEM and The Fort St Jean
The MUCEM (Museum of Mediterranean and European Civilizations) is a must, for any tourist or local in Marseille. Opened in 2013 as part of Marseille being the designated European Capital of Culture, the museum has greatly contributed ever since to the city’s new-found attractiveness and wave of optimism. Anchored at the beginning of the docks, at the entrance of the old port, The MUCEM is a breath-taking 15,000 m2 cube of latticework shell made of fiber-reinforced concrete, meant to remind visitors of fishermen’s nets. Allow 2 to 3 hours to visit its permanent and temporary exhibitions.
Once finished, make sure to exit through the rooftop patio and hop on the elevated pedestrian bridge to the pink-stoned Fort St Jean. Fragrant herb gardens, olive trees, sinuous sentry walks and areas to lounge in the sun… Fort St Jean offers an amazingly serene haven, with superb views on the urban hub.
Eat: Sard’in
Sard’in has it all right. Ideally located on rue Coutellerie (a street away from the Old Port), this concept restaurant is one of the world’s first sardine bars – a genius idea, and insanely delicious! The chef works with local canneries to source the best quality sardines, and offers them in a deliciously-crazy menu. Canned, grilled, fried, in beignets, on toast, with pescadou sauce or confite… Sardines in all its forms and shapes, all equally exquisite. The menu also offers delicious antipastos and dishes featuring cod, urchin and squid. After you eat, you can also purchase the cans of sardines to go.
Eat: La Femina
In the heart of the Noalle quarter (the North-African quarter, described as “Marseille’s stomach”) La Femina is the place to go if you want to indulge in an authentic couscous. Portions are very generous and the taste is amazing. Your meal is served in traditional clay dishware, with wooden spoons, and with a fiery side of harissa sauce.
Marseille Guide – Part 1 summary:
Do:
Eat:
Marseille Guide – Part 2 Coming soon …
